Q. Question? I am trying choose a tile for the SHOWER ENCLOSURE that is
- not shiny so won't show water marks (hardwater area)
- will make a statement against our black/very dark grey slate floor
- preferably 30cm x 60cm because I think that size looks very elegant
- will show minimal mould if any forms, likely as it's a bathroom with no windows, only a fan for ventilation
- not dark like the slate, I don't like dark bathrooms so I'm trying to cheer it up.

I would like the accent colour to be purple but am happy to change this. The fixtures are very modern in style. The splashback and shelf are also tiled in slate.

A. Best Answer: you do not want to have a tile that will not show mold it is the mold you do not see that will cause you problems proper clening will handle the mold by not allowing it to form in the first place . I would use a high gloss tile to promote rapid sheeting of water to the drain. use the same color as your floor as accent band about sholder highth .

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Q. Question? Hi ! iam about to fit a shower tray and enclosure should the tiling be done prior to fitting the tray and enclosure, please note that the shower tray is going down on a concrete floor !!! any constructive answers would be more appreciated, im asking because if the tray is going directly on to concrete why not put it directly onto tile and it would save cutting a tiling round the base !!

A. Best Answer: Base goes down first, then tile, then enclosure. Re-tiling in future would be difficult if the base was on the tiles.

The enclosure can be removed to retile for a nice neat job.

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Q. Question? hi,
We are redoing/deep cleaning our shower. We have removed the silicone, grout etc but there is one part that just wont clean-_- so we need a new one. The part goes under the shower door, Its a long thin peace of rubber/see through plastic that seems to stop any water from running out under the door. We have been to Explains but when we try and explain what we want they just stare blankly and say to buy a new shower enclosure. Whats this peice called? Any one got any clue? thanks for any help - Adam.

A. Best Answer: It's called a bottom seal - but I've never seen them on sale separate from the shower door.
You may be able to replace it with a neoprene (black) seal normally used in aluminium greenhouses. Try a few greenhouse spares sites.

PS I've since found this site http://www.theshowersealshop.com/shop/start

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Q. Question? i would like to install a quadrant shower enclosure . can this style be risen of the floor , due to pipes it needs to be 6inches of the floor.

A. Best Answer: Yes, the normal way to do this is to make a level 3/4" plywood platform the same shape as the shower tray with a 4" diameter hole for the trap. support this platform with 4 timbers of the required size (normally 4"x2") on edge.
Sit the tray on this and then sit the enclosure on the tray. make sure you use a trap for a shower as these are shallower than other traps.

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Q. Question? Hey guys does this quote seem reasonsable for a new bathroom. 1)New Bathroom Suite with pressed steel bath 2)New Shower with Enclosure i.e Not Walk in 3) New Ceiling with uPVC cladding 4)Cost of Half Tiling (Labour only)5) Boxing in of Pipework. Room is about 1.7m by 2.2m plus they have to run a pipe about 2m as well. Ps We have not seen the units (white) etc and appears like we have to buy tiles as well. Manchester Based Cost £3500 plus 15% all together

A. Best Answer: is that the only quote you have had?
i would have thought that that would have included the tiles too.
i wouldnt just have the one quote. get three or four and go with your gut feeling and choose the middle of the range.
try somewhere like http://www.alltradesuk.com you should be able to find a local bathroom fitter there.

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Q. Question? If it goes down last I could do it myself and save some money. If it has to go down first the fitter would have to remove all the existing fixtures and fittings and come again to fit the new fixtures eg . shower enclosure and vanity unit. Does it really matter?

A. Best Answer: It's a matter of personal choice.

Personally, I wouldn't lay it until after all the work has been done, as there is less chance of it getting damaged during the refit.

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Q. Question? i would like to install a quadrant shower enclosure , do i have to tile the walls

A. Best Answer: A friend of mine fitted one and used PVC sheets that had a tile pattern on them,looks good and really easy to fit,just seal edges/corners with mastic,also easy to keep clean,no grout to get mouldy!!!
Most diy stores have these in UK. US who knows?

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Q. Question? advice need on buying a shower enclosure online.
who to trust

A. Best Answer: Try screwfix.com
They have never let me down and have a good customer service dept.

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Q. Question? i would like some hint`s on how to install a shower-wet room. I have a enclosure in my bathroom, and would be able to fit a shower in there,i really did not want a shower tray any idea`s you great pepole?

A. Best Answer: First you need to get balanced hot and cold supplies. Be it either both off a combi, both off a tank and cylinder, both off a pump (attached to tank and cylinder), or an electric shower which you just need a cold main and an electrical supply from your mains board with the correct breakers and isolators.

You need a shower door that will fit across the opening to the enclosure (i like CORAM as a make - i have used a few for just this task) or adjust to suit.

Next once you have your pipework in (recessed into wall or wall studded off over them using aquaboard water resistant plaster boards or-> aquapanel. Clad the walls in these awesome panels with no joins or seals on them except in the corners and stud one wall off with some 2x2 and you will massively cut down your expenses in materials and labour and the risk of a leak - i love the stuff and you can get some nice colours/textures/designes) you need to do the waste. If you want it at floor level you will need to run the drainage pipe DONT GO ANY SMALLER THAN inch and a half bore. It will be buried so solvent weild will be better incase you ever need to plunge it. That way the orings wont deteriorate and/or push off when you do.

You will need a decent fall - dont be tempted to do it level or near level as it will fill up with skin and soap and hair and run slow and eventually block SOLID! Run it between joists, or if you have the correct depth and size joists drill them but id reccoment not doing that - to a soil pipe. You will need a wetroom trap - a shower trap WILL NOT DO if you want to do it properly and avoid leaks. A leak will mean smashing your good work or smacking a hole in tghe ceiling from the room below.

I would suggest getting an extractor fan over or very neer to the shower as it will dampen the ceiling above and around it. A vertical termination thru the roof is best for clearance of vapour. If you dont get an extractor you will get damp, smells and mildew - no matter how good your silicone/grouting is! That destroys the seals and once again you have leaks and a smelly room!

As for the shower go to the MIRA website. Mira showers kick arse and dont go wrong. If electric go for the MIRA SPORT or ADVANCE if you can afford it. THERMOSTATIC MIXER if you have a pump/combi/gravity i would reccomend the ELEMENT or EXCEL, or cheaper the MINI LITE or MINI DUO.

You can go non-thermostatic with gravity but i wouldnt - i always fit thermostatic as it hugely reduces burn risk. MIRA have an awesome safety reaction time. For the sake of £50 or less to go thermostatic its just not risk scarring yourself/someone for life.

Dont go Aqualisa - have been called to HUGE ammount of problems with their showers bursting, cracking, saftey valves (thermostatic) failing and in a couple of occasions burning people. I hate them. And the after care, even when confronted with an accusation of a burn is stone walled and one threat to take ME to court for slander. Funny how when i told them i was off to the press they came out and fixed it for free by putting a different grade cartridge in the shower. The OPTO valves last 2 years max before they go out of calibration and let 65 deg C water and higher thru the head- GUARANTEED.

Triton are not bad - dont look as pretty but have a good aftercare and guarantee and reliability record. Simply - just go MIRA!

Personally id get a mira shower tray - have a look at the MIRA FLIGHT range and see what you think. They are resin so solid. Very cool and if you have a problem you can always take the side panel off (comes in the pack) and fix it without destruction.

If you want tiles go stone or ceramic - porceline is fine but much harder to work with and a bitch to drill even with diamond bits as it eats them! Big tiles will be best for floor with good grout. You will need to overboard the floor with plywood or they will crack and/or lift.

Use good adheisive too, none of this grout and adheisive in one stuff its crap. Get something latex based.

If you go porceline or stone you will have to seal it with chemicals. Both are permiable, despite appearence. If you dont they will both stain and the sealant will also help the grout from discolouring.

Good luck and if you have anything else just ask!

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